Thom Browne curated an impressive ensemble of celebrities for the 2023 Met Gala, an event commemorating the Costume Institute’s showcase, ‘Karl Lagerfeld: A Line Of Beauty.’ The attire, a couture masterpiece, featured a striking array of black and white gowns, tuxedos, suits, and evening wear that paid a splendid tribute to Karl Lagerfeld’s illustrious career, particularly his influential era at Chanel. Browne infused his distinctive touch into the collection, skillfully weaving daring originality with definitive Chanel references.
In his Fall-Winter 2023 fashion collection, Browne, recently appointed as the Chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, presented a visionary spectacle. Against the backdrop of a crashed plane amidst the solar system, the runway showcased extraterrestrial motifs, angelic figures, and space travelers. The galactic column dresses, adorned with intricate embroidery, alienesque nails, and avant-garde headgear, marked a playful interlude before Browne transported his signature suiting style to uncharted galaxies, meticulously tailored yet unknown.
The latter part of the show unfolded with a winning hand of exaggeration, as shoulders expanded to sporting uniform proportions, suggesting collegiate athletics. Browne skillfully explored exaggerated deconstruction and masterful reconstruction, reimagining ties, lapels, and sleeves in unconventional placements within his amalgamations. Traditional suiting fabrics underwent creative draping, with prints and plaids boldly reversed, slashed, and stitched to challenge the conventional linear designs of fabric construction.
The show commenced with a poignant narration from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novella, “The Little Prince,” stating, “It is only with the heart one can see rightly, what is essential is invisible to the eye.” Despite the initial sense of childlike wonder, Browne’s collection revealed an almost academic precision in detail. The fusion of traditional suiting, high-tailoring, and inventive reconstruction appears poised to define a new avant-garde standard here on Earth.