Loewe’s Fall 2024 collection, revealed at Paris Fashion Week, transported attendees into a labyrinthine gallery adorned with the understated yet captivating works of the late American painter Albert York. Against this evocative backdrop, Jonathan Anderson, Loewe’s creative director, presented a collection that defied expectations, seamlessly blending opulence with simplicity, and tradition with innovation.
Inspired by York’s humble yet profound paintings, Anderson embarked on a journey exploring the evolution of craft and the shifting definitions of luxury. He delved into the provenance of creations, contemplating how art and artifacts transcend their origins to become symbols of status and taste. Anderson’s reflections prompted considerations of class, wealth, and societal perceptions of art.
Central to Anderson’s vision were nods to historical elements, such as the traditional 1920s Etonian morning suit, reimagined as luxurious ready-to-wear attire. These pieces challenged conventional occasionwear, paired with billowy, pleated balloon-hem pants adorned with whimsical prints of radishes and flowers. Each garment fused formality with imagination, inviting viewers to reconsider established sartorial norms.
Key pieces in the collection included intricate beadwork representations of provincial French ceramics, such as bundles of asparagus and adorable canine motifs. Collars fashioned from real wood chips echoed the ornate details of Chippendale furniture, inviting contemplation on the reproduction and reinterpretation of historical artifacts.
Anderson’s craftsmanship shone through every detail, from crystallized pinstripe suits to trompe l’œil “caviar”-beaded embroidery, blurring the lines between traditional craft and contemporary fashion. His exploration of historical techniques applied to clothing underscored the transformative power of craft, prompting viewers to reconsider the value and meaning imbued in garments and objects.
Through this collection, Anderson challenged perceptions and provoked thought, pushing the boundaries of fashion. As Loewe continues to thrive under Anderson’s direction, his ability to merge intelligence with fluidity in design storytelling remains evident.